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Home > Espagnole sauce


Espagnole is the name of the most famous and most complex of the great mother sauces that are the basis of classic French cooking. The method of making it was codified by Auguste Escoffier in the late 19th century and today it is still made by essentially the same recipe. Even though the name "espagnole" means "Spanish" in French, it has no connection with Spanish cuisine.

The basic method of making Espagnole sauce is to prepare a very dark brown roux, to which are added several gallons of veal stock or water, along with 20 or 30 pounds of browned bones and pieces of beef. There are also many pounds of vegetables, as well as various seasonings. This is allowed to slowly reduce for many hours over a period of days while being frequently skimmed. In the classic recipe, additional quantities of veal stock were added as the liquid reduced. Towards the end of the process, tomato sauce is incorporated and the sauce is further reduced.

Espagnole sauce itself has a somewhat unpleasant taste and is not used directly on food. Once it has been made, however, small portions of it are then used to create further refinements, which are then used either for cooking or for garnishing cooked dishes. Some of the more well-known sauces created from a base of Espagnole are: Sauce Africaine, Sauce Bigarade, Sauce Bouguignonne, Sauce aux Champignons, Sauce Charcutiere, Sauce Chasseur, and Sauce Chevreuil, just to go as far as the "Cs". There are hundreds of others in the classic French repertoire.

If Espagnole sauce is made in the classical method, it will take the home cook at least two or three days of work and he or she will probably end up with about 4 to 5 quarts of sauce. In most recipes, however, 1 cup of Espagnole is more than enough, so that the basic recipe will yield enough sauce for 16 to 20 meals. Frozen in small quantities, the Espagnole will keep practically indefinitely.

The following Italian recipe apparently dates from the late 19th century and bears no relation whatsoever to the classic Espagnole as it is unthickened except for a tiny amount of flour and should only be regarded as a curiosity.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Grease the bottom of a stew pan with at least two ounces of butter
  2. Add the slices of lean veal, ham, bacon, beef or poultry, three peppercorns, mushroom trimmings, a tomato, a carrot and a turnip cut up, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, parsley and marjoram
  3. Braise well for 15 minutes with the lid on
  4. Add the stock and boil gently for 15 minutes
  5. Strain through a Tamis, then remove excess grease
  6. Cool in an earthenware vessel, and add glaze if desired
  7. Pass through a sieve before serving.

Source: The Cook's Decameron: A Study In Taste, Containing Over Two Hundred Recipes For Italian Dishes from a project that puts out-of-copyright texts into the public domain. This is from a *very* old source, and reflects the cooking at the turn of the last century. Update as necessary.

Brown sauces



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